Việt Nam’s favourite game

by Ray Riches *

As I drive down any road in HCM City I will always fly past a big sign that says BIDA without so much as a passing thought. Bida is one of the most popular pastimes for people in Việt Nam. Across the country Bida is played in all places from high class establishments to open countryside huts.

Bida, for non-Vietnamese speakers, is the game of pool or billiards. The many variations of the game are played, mostly by men, across the country. However, women are now much more involved with some going as far as representing Việt Nam on the world stage in tournaments such as 8 ball and 9 ball.

Billiards, a cue sport that uses three balls and a table with no pockets, has a rich history dating back to 15th-century Europe and gradually spread to different parts of the world over the centuries. The game’s introduction to Việt Nam likely came through colonial influences or trade back in the early to mid 1800’s.

Typically played by expats, the early days of the game in Việt Nam would most likely been exclusively for the colonial inhabitants of the time. But changes to the structure of Việt Nam over the past 100 years have seen the game spread from mansions and exclusive clubs to businesses on every corner and in every town across the country.

Young players practise before a tournament at ELCA Vietnam. VNS Photos Ray Riches

Unlike many western countries, Việt Nam does not have a bar culture. In fact, to have a beer in Việt Nam, you are really limited to restaurants, including my favourite Oc (sea snail) restaurants and other similar food outlets, which will serve you food and alcohol to enjoy with your friends. This is where the Bida halls filled the gap.

These businesses are not bars. The focus of the business is the sport of various varieties of cue sports. As an added feature, they are also set up as a seller of café style drinks and alcoholic drinks to enjoy while paying.

Additionally, many also act as a short order food services where you can buy the regular local dishes like rice and noodles but some go further to offer chips and other finger foods, which makes the experience of playing pool in Việt Nam so much more fun.

After spending a day at a pool hall in HCM City recently, I concluded they really are the Vietnamese version of the Australian pub but with a totally different focus. In Australia you go to the pub to have a beer and while there you might enjoy a game or three of pool, at a hefty cost per game thanks to the coin operated tables.

In Việt Nam, you go to the Bida hall to play pool or billiards, and while there, you might also have a bit of food and a coffee, or a beer, with your friends. Renting the table by the hour means you have the entire space to yourself while still being close to other players who are also enjoying a table.

Not all Bida halls have food or drinks and that means every location offers a different experience. At the high end themed establishments, anything is available including high cost spirits and imported seafood, where as a local countryside establishments might offer only coffee and soda. Every place delivers a uniquely different experience.

The only real downside to these places is the fact that the tables are a little close together and you may have to be conscious of others playing on a table near you. Additionally, for me, the music can sometimes be too loud, representing something more like a night club than a pool hall.

An ELCA employee lines up the final shot of his practice game at the ELCA Office in HCM City.

Holding on to traditions, pool halls across the country are one of the few services that maintain the option for customers to smoke inside the business. It is a tradition that has been around for generations and holds on while much of Việt Nam slowly transitions to smoke-free options.

One of my favourite things about playing in local Bida halls in the suburbs of HCM City is that they will often have staff, mostly female, that will play pool with you if you want to go there alone. It costs nothing extra and they will often enjoy getting paid to play pool, plus maybe even practise their English or I practise my Vietnamese.

With generations of history of playing this sport, Việt Nam has now developed a reputation across Asia and the world as a competitive and capable cue sport country. And the future looks bright with more and more men and women representing Việt Nam on the world stage in all versions of the sport. Bida is alive and well in Việt Nam.

As you ride down the street and pass these local businesses, stop for a moment and consider taking some time out and enjoying a few games of pool at a Bida hall. The experience will be just as good for the local regular players as it will be for you. VNS

*Ray lives in HCM City and works as a teacher and freelancer. Apart from teaching he is a keen runner and bicycle adventure rider. He has visited many parts of the country by bicycle and loves the smaller parts of this beautiful country. After ten years in Việt Nam, Ray has a love and passion for the smaller things and enjoys sharing his experiences with people all over the world.